I’m hooked on surfing


John catches a wave at Cedro's

It makes perfect sense. Ski in the winter, surf in the summer. After a week with Hillary at Peaks and Swells Surf Camp, learning to ride the waves in Costa Rica, both John and I are hooked. As we flew home yesterday, my husband regaled me with future surf destinations–Bali, Peru, Maui. Hey what about those isolated breaks north of Vancouver Island that we see from the float plane? Could we surf those? I think it’s going to take a few more

Happiness is riding a wave all the way into shore

waves before we’re ready for anything like that, but we’re on our way.

This weekend marks the end of Crystal Mountain’s “regular” season and the beginning of the spring season. We will be open for skiing on weekends (starting with Thursdays and Fridays too). Personally my fingers are crossed for a good corn cycle and long, sunny days on the mountain. After that, who knows? Maybe more surfing.

Oh yeah, and in between surfing and skiing, my memoir, The Next Fifteen Minutes, comes out in November. So I need to squeeze in some promotion here and there–maybe a quick guest appearance on the Today Show or Oprah’s final episode or something. As long as it doesn’t cut into my surfing time, that is.

Seriously though, I’m feeling like a very lucky girl. By all rights, my husband isn’t even supposed to be alive. Even more than catching waves myself this past week, I loved watching John catch them. Most of all, I loved the look on his face. Determined to catch a wave, then focused while up and finally exultant as he learned to carve and turn along the face of the glassy curlers, I thanked the universe for our luck.

7 responses »

  1. sounds wonderful! Love that you take a moment to be grateful.
    November isn’t that far off!!! I can’t believe your memoir will be out so soon! Sooo looking forward to it!
    Enjoy the spring conditions.

    • You’re awesome Terry. You know that as November approaches I will be knocking on your door (virtually, that is) for pointers from a veteran author such as yourself! Hope it’s going well!

  2. Looking forward to reading your book! Life it too short not to apppreciate every second, even if you live to be 102!!! Esp. special when you’ve had “wake up calls”!

    • So true Joann. Thanks for stopping by. It’s strange how a close brush with death can make life all the more vivid and precious. I want to stop and appreciate every, every moment.
      All the best,

  3. So glad I discovered your blog and looking forward to your book. Ah costa rica! I just did some body/boogie board surfing there back in the 90s on the Nicoya Peninsula when it was pretty sleepy and not many norte americanos except surfers and backpackers. Hung out with some surfer dudes from CA and had quite a night on the beach…oh, I’d better not go there. Anyway, yes, hope we have a good late season with sweet corn and blue skies.

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